Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Italia

Italia
So finally my Italian adventure is at an end. I guess I've seen a fair bit of the country: Rome, Pompei, Amalfi Coast, Perugia, Pisa, Florence, Ravenna and, of course, Venice. I've passed through many other places but those are the principal places I explored to some degree.
I'm not certain yet what I conceive of Italy as a whole - the unanimous experience will yield some time to stand I think.

The overpowering impression I give is one of shabbiness. But then, Italy has been round for a really long time so I guess it's a bit unrealistic to bear it to be pristine. However, looking beyond the coat is so much more rewarding. The history, culture, art. the art!. it simply goes on. I believe the sole thing I haven't seen that I truly would have liked to is da Vinci's Last Supper. It's in a convent in Milan (I suppose it's Milan) and you want to record for your 15 minute viewing at least 6 months in advance. Needless to say I'm not that organised. Nevermind, I've seen enough incredible things to prevent me satisfied.
Geographically, Italy is far more mountainous than I expected. Even now, at the end of March, many of the alpine areas are even covered in snow. Driving from here to there and so on to wherever has been an inherent piece of the trip. There aren't many empty spaces and towns are really closely together - though I suspect that's typical of everywhere other than Australia and North America. Driving through the mountains is nerve wracking at times but the views are spectacular. Times like that I wished someone else was driving and I could only look, and take photos.
From a history point of view I'd have to say that Rome was the highlight. The corpse of the Forum, the Colosseum - I was only continually in awe at seeing these things I've rabbited on about for days and years. Coming out of the keep that is the tube to be confronted by the Colosseum, right there in presence of me: something I'll never forget.
Apart from the history, Rome is a situation I could do without. It's noisy, crowded and not at all relaxed. The traffic is nightmarish and pedestrians really do get to take to make their wits about them, 1000%. That's not to say that I didn't enjoy my time there, I did. There's only so lots to see, you can't help but be enthralled.
The Vatican City, geographically in Rome but politically independent, has to be seen to be believed. St Peter's I just saw from the outside. I probably should get through the tour inside but it didn't happen. I lost the Pieta as a result. The Vatican museum is unbelievable. So much wealth and artworks from scratch to finish. Some of it was so ended the top. Nonetheless, a marvellous collection. Of course, the foreground there is the Sistine Chapel. No language can adequately describe that ceiling. A true marvel.
Pompei was likely the shabbiest city I visited. But again, the story made it all good. The destroyed city is enthralling to roam through. Ancient Rome as it actually was. It was a really good impression to bear in the same place as Pink Floyd too (the amphitheatre).
The Amalfi Coast is so picturesque - real postcard stuff. Driving it is a bit stressful but the views are wonderful.
Perugia has faded in my memory a bit. I think I liked being there and the old town center was keen to cast through, but naught is standing out in my memory as "must see this" material. Mind you, I'm certain that when I look back over the photos I'll be jolted back there in a flash.
Pisa was possibly the disappointment of the adventure. The cathedral, baptistry and Leaning Tower were as brilliant as expected but the township itself didn't endear itself to me. Get there, see the tower, leave - that'd be my advice.
Florence. Florence has the art. Florence has David. The Ponte Vecchio, the Uffizi, the statues everywhere. I saw so many wondrous deeds of art in Venice - da Vinci, Michelangelo, Botticelli, etc. It's simply a wonderful place to roll and feel and pluck it all in. At the sentence I thought Florence was my favorite place to be. It has David after all.
Ravenna was a pleasant surprise. I stopped there precisely because it was convenient but I'm glad I did. The Byzantine mosaics in the churches there are a real treasure. They're rated as the best in Western Europe and it's light to see why. Magnificent detail and colours.
I originally engaged for 5 years in Venice but ended up staying for 9. Magic. It's the most expensive place I've been to but, jeez, it was worth it. No traffic, leisurely pace, the canals, the boats, the gondola, the architecture, the food, etc etc. I cried when I had to leave. Of all the places in Italy, in fact in Europe that I've seen to date, Venice is the jewel. I don't know what it is: the history's not as well as Rome's, the art is not as well as in Florence (or Paris for that matter). It's the atmosphere I think. It's only a lovely office to wander, sit, catch a waterbus across the lagoon or on the Grand Canal and look. It's virtually inconceivable to get anywhere in Venice in a rush and I suppose that's what I loved the most.
The final two years have been mostly driving: Venice, down the Adriatic coast to Senigallia, near Ancona and so further refine the seashore a bit more, then go right and head across the country to Rome. Using the motorway (autostrada) it takes almost 2 hours to get from one face of Italy to the other - east-west, that is. Tonight I'm in Fiumicino, a pair of miles from the airport.

Italy is expensive, particularly Venice, if you get to the tourist haunts. In St Mark's Square you can pay 10, or more, euros for a coffee (I paid 16 for a glaze of ordinary white wine!), yet not too far away, down a few streets, across a few canals, you can get the same coffee for 1 or 2 euro. And a whole bottle of wine for 12. It pays to appear around. Many places will charge up to 5 euros (cover charge) just to let you sit down, even if you're just having a coffee.
Petrol is about 1.50 euro a litre - it's cost me about 200 to prevent the Order going and I reckon that's a lot given I didn't get at all in Rome, Florence and Venice.
The hotels have all been pretty well but they frequently have hidden charges. In Rome I was charged 10 euro a night only to make the car parked there, in Florence it was 15 a night. The hotel on the Lido wanted to rouse me 5 euro an hour for wifi access and that's just outrageous. In that regard, the Astoria in Pompei was, by far, the best hotel: cheap rates, free wifi, free parking, home cooked food, friendly people (even though they spoke not a book of English), and within walking distance of the ruins. Can't go wrong.
Lido, by the way, is Italian for beach. So, Lido di Venezia is, in fact, Venice Beach.

I'm certain I get more to say but whatsoever it was has abandoned me now. I should go to bed anyway as I make a 9.30 flight to see in the sunrise and a car to take before that.....

Later...

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